Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Burgos Cathedral


Burgos has one of the most impressive Gothic cathedrals in Spain, or anywhere, for that matter. The bulk of the Cathedral was built between 1221 and 1300, with some major additions in the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries. It is a perfect example of French Gothic architecture in its purest form.

The Cathedral is in very good overall condition, having undergone some great recent renovations. Externally it is in better shape than the Cathedral of Toledo, which has some pretty deteriorated statues. All in all, this is an incredible church.

The problem with these churches, from my perspective, is that as living religious centers, they undergo extensive reconstructions which often obscure the historical nature of the buildings. Often the renovations are very consciously ideological, for example the transfer of the bodies of El Cid and his wife Jimena to the Cathedral in 1919. Sure, it was neat to visit the grave of Castilla's most famous knight, but how much more interesting would it be in its proper context (the Monastery of Silos, outside the city)?

My historical quibbles aside, this Cathedral is a massive, spectacular pile. It is without a doubt the single most impressive thing I have seen during my time in Spain. Just the detail of the Stations of the Cross in the stained-glass in the Sarmatel door rosette is fantastic (dates to 1240).

No comments:

Post a Comment